Tea for Travel

Shedding Bangalore in Delhi

2012-02-19T23:07:00.000-08:00

The perennial poser for tourists - The rickshawalah!

I don’t know why I had beads of sweat line my forehead on a chilly February morning in Delhi. Obviously it was something other than the bleak sun, desperately trying to convey its presence behind a thick tuft of grey clouds. I soon found out! You see, having been in Bangalore for almost 8 years now, I am not used to brazen requests for a photo, a barrage of questions on why I was standing alone, a far from mild insinuation on my presumably ample behind ( what lies!!) and such. Mind you, this is not an attempt to start the already slain argument on’ Madrasis’ Vs ‘Punjabis’, it’s just an account of what I experienced. Having travelled alone for quite some time now, I should have had the dead pan expression that many women in India have to use as fortitude against eve teasing, but I found myself getting increasingly nervous. I was standing alone right in front of Red Fort, Chandi Chowk area waking upto a busy Sunday morning, completely missing one photo opportunity after another.

The Guard at the Bird Hospital

Soon, maybe with some sudden divine intervention, it occurred to me that Delhi does not have a sense of inhibition. No one guards themselves behind reticent requests or a dolcile nudges. A shove is a shove because it’s meant to make you move out of their way, a request for a photograph is more like a demand because you are in THEIR area and brandishing a camera – now what were you thinking? And ofcourse a lone woman alone in a busy market at 7.00 a.m would only stand out like a sore thumb. Feeling relieved at this strange epiphany and restoring my regard for ‘Dilli’ and its ‘Dilliwalahs’, I shed some bit of Bangalore and began to enjoy! It must have also been the company of folks from Delhi Heritage Walk and my sudden love for this uninhibited audacity, I was all set – elbows out, confident stride and a smile.

Say it Straight - Tourist Magnets

It was strange how I had never seen so many things before – the interiors of the bird hospital, the spice market, the weathered doors of ‘muhallas’ and the Fatehpuri Masjid! The Jain temple at the head of Chandni Chowk Market is famous for its 3000 strong population of sick birds. Run purely on donation, it’s a well kept facility with a doctor at all times and a workforce which runs the kitchen, cleans cages and tends to these avian friends. I walked up the narrow passage to the 2^nd floor and was welcomed inside to see the functioning. Ofcourse, photography was not allowed and surprisingly no one even suggested that I should donate anything.

The Reflection of the Fatehpuri Masjid in the Wazu Fountain

The charming chaos of the market is something I had experienced before. Some expected things like Sheeshganj Gurdwara, Kinari Bazaar and the oldest chaat shop didn’t hold my attention too much but the contradictory silent detours from the main market did. So did the sneeze inducing spice market and the oasis in between this clutter - the Fatehpuri Masjid. Certainly the highlight of my trip, the Masjid is such a relief in contrast to the all the action outside. Second in size after Jama Masjid, this one has an active Madarsa and living space as well. Old men sun bathed near the Wazu fountain while a classroom of 12 children swayed in unison while memorising from the Quran. The vast brightly lit courtyard was inviting to just sit and soak in the sun. After learning that footwear could be brought inside only if the soles touched each other, we were back in the bustling streets of the market, only to end in a wonderful finale – the terrace of the Masjid. As the faint memory of my morning discomfort recurred, I decisively pushed it away, loving the lack of self consciousness that Delhi imbibes.

View from the Masjid's terrace

For more photographs of this trip, visit: http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150778734640744.502510.183869825743&type=1

South Canara for Kambala Buffalo Race

2012-01-18T21:33:00.000-08:00

17^th Jan

Any unknown small town can seem quite hostile and threatening if you arrive at 4.45 a.m! As most of my travels usually are, this one too was free flowing and sans a plan! As the day caught up on me, the same topography looked so much more cheerful and busy, shedding the Cimmerian shadows!

It was a day to go back and forth on the west coast between Udipi and Mangalore, chasing one lead after another! The stale fish of smell and humidity may bother some, but I strangely find it uplifting and comfortable.

View from the probable workshop venue!

The coast in this part of the region is not exploited as much as Goa, so the beaches have this rawness about them. Ofcourse there are patches like Kapu and others which attract tourists, but these are absolutely avoidable. My expected probable plans crumbled and the new findings turned out to be quite feasible as I found one of the most peaceful stay options ever for POTM – think of the sea a few meters ahead, a basic but very clean Mangalore style structure and ofcourse tons of plants!

Probable Workshop Venue

Ofcourse Suneil Shetty’s house (if anyone cares about the not so popular Bollywood actor) and a large hairy spider travelling in the car with us was the driver’s highlight! Mine was certainly meeting the most heart-warming and ‘eager to help’ people, who don’t owe me anything, but are ready to ride in the car to point out the right spot, make calls from their phones to reach out to the best contact and delay their lunch by hours.

I would have never thought of having such a comfortable time in a road side bar, with cock-fight enthusiasts who offered to show me the Kambala tracks that are being built in Nandi Kur. This was only after they ensured that I finished my Pepsi and not paid for it. The work on the tracks is on with full alacrity in the village of Nandi Kur. The races are re-starting in this village after a break with new found patronage from a businessman! Surely, everyone’s excited and happy that we will be there to click.

Ready for the fight!

The Kambala races are said to be 1000 years old. If you have been watching the debates on TV, it is controversial from a modern day perspective for the ill-treatment of the animals. Having been here for some time and talking to participants and organisers, it is now curtailed to a large extent. Also, the tradition is so deep rooted that logic defies tradition. While we strictly stick to documentation of the event, the topic has been stirring up discussions amongst many! Whatever said and done, this is going be a truly authentic experience and everybody can choose to have their own opinion.

Kambala Track Building Fast at Nandi Kur

18 Jan

Reached the Padiyar House in Eedu village by noon after a trip to the 1000 pillar temple at Moodbidri ( bless fast cars and great souls who drive from far away places just to guide wandering people like me).Mr. Ashok, the host for Kambala and Eedu has been running these races himself for the last 20 years and the track here is 18 years old.

Mr.Ashok of Eedu Village - Been racing since 20 years

Tucked away at the base of the Kudremukh peak, the setting of the village is splendid. I get a quick education on the 7 village deities, rubber plantation, rice cultivation, the exact point where there was a recent Naxal confrontation with the police and ofcourse the details for Kambala (right from where the stage will be, to how the buffaloes are stopped after such a momentum, a trip around the 100 years old house, the camp where competitors will bring in the buffaloes and the drinking well for the animals!) It’s certainly a fair amount of money! Imagine, all this for prestige – the prize money isn’t that much and the upkeep/cost of a single buffalo can be upto Rs 10 lakh or even more...

The place where all the buffaloes will camp with their owners

Enthralled, excited and everything else in between to come back in Feb with people who will truly want to understand and enjoy this event... Lots of similarities between the Snake Boat Race and this event - largely for the spirit of the competition, village pride and things like that!

The Eedu Kambala Track - all natural!

All in all, a super fulfilling trip!

Eulogies for the New Year...

2012-01-10T22:16:00.000-08:00

Amidst many hectic travels, we sort of overlooked this little section! Apologies and ‘spit on a handshake’ promise that we definitely will be updating this for you to see whats happening behind the scenes!

Starting the year on a rather sad note with some ‘eulogies’! Ofcourse metaphoric, its saddening to see some destinations that we’ve loved, succumb to the over impression of tourists that it cannot handle. Mind you, we would love it if the country’s travel instincts were honed and many more chose to discover their own country! But how does one fight the tremendously discounted but mindless exposure by companies which can wield the purses! No doubt that the destination itself would love to have tourists coming in – better prospects for them, a sustainable income and all that, but how about some mature reservation or better still, education on how to travel? Did anyone think of the impact that happens on the basic ecological system?

We draw your attention to Ladakh! The famous Manali – Leh road which was once a biker’s respite from the city life.. It’s now dotted with hundreds of vehicles, seams bursting with people, loud thumping music and packets of chips flying out! Poor Rohtang, which beckoned travellers for a quick tea break has ATVs( yes, All Terrain Vehicles), some 30 horses, more shops and maybe 100s making a mess of the place. A HUGE dump of garbage lies unattended and invisible to all these people getting themselves clicked, or just adding more chips’ packets to the topography. The loos are something are a topic which will always remain distressing in context to India. We write this eulogy to poor Ladakh and the route from Manali – you will be dearly missed! We leave you with this picture on our way back to Manali – think, decide and travel with care!

A future eulogy for the Andamans! This bizarre archipelago of over 300 islands is really something one must explore. Connectivity and acceptance of tourists has made this another hot spot. The heart warming concoction of local Bengalis, Malyalis, Tamilians and many more makes this a wonderful place – as long as you stay away from the tourist infested beaches.. Luckily, there are so many that we can still find our quiet spots. Cruises full of people come there every winter, again armed with chips’ packets and no brains! The bay area in Port Blair cuts a sorry figure with all this mess going into the sea. There is no reservation on the amount of people coming in that period! Yes, there is a an impressive no poly bag policy that did stand out. The Jarawas (one of the indigenous tribes),who have chosen to stay elusive from the mainstream life are subjected to 4 convoys of travellers per day. Each convoy has atleast 300 cars and buses. One is not allowed to click photographs or give them food, but you still find them asking for ‘paan’ and ‘rice’ – naturally someone would have started this..... If Andamans goes to the dogs, there is only one thing to blame – an experience sold without any education or orientation.

Hopefully the new year will bring about a tide of change in travel sensibilities. For the Indian middle class to holiday as a family is something that we need to cheer! A sense of arrival and prosperity is great for the country. The travellers/ tourists themselves are impressionable – but all those who are selling them these dreams, should also think about cultivating a civic sense around this and that will truly be applaudable!

Beauty Beyond Convention!

2011-05-23T03:27:00.000-07:00

The Nagaland journey was shaping up well – legs were thrillingly weary, six flushed faces overcoming the heat, a trove of experiences had been collected and we had not even reached the most exciting part as yet! Aizuto, a small unassuming village consumed us in its affable & easy pace. By this time, we had determined that travellers were sparse in this region and we were equally the source of intrigue as the locals were to us. Marigolds and poinsettias lined the cobblestoned elevated path to the village, where carefree roosters nervously pecked at inane things.

Suddenly, a sharp cackle pierced through the calmness and we all looked up startled. Perched in the balcony of her wooden house, was a wrinkled beaming face! Some wild gesturing and the word ‘chai’ is the only thing that urged us to tread upto the house! The next half an hour was a riot.

An energetic, though, weathered face constantly giggled at the prospect of having some unusual visitors in her house. Her spontaneous cheer lent such warmth to the environment. Soon all the cameras were out but no amount of gadgets frazzled this 99 year old. She bounced in and out of her house, tugging at my arm to come inside and have a look at her tribal acquisitions –intricate jewellery, shawls, heirlooms of all shapes and value were laid out without the slightest diffidence.

Tea was served from a modest kitchen and a young boy was hollered at to get something to eat. All this, without a word exchanged? Affection and hospitality completed eluded the language barrier! Our attempt to give her a little money was embarrassingly thwarted. I wonder if she knew the extent of our gratitude on giving us such an intimate experience of her life in Nagaland, as our ‘thank yous’ dissolved in perpetual laughter.

This, in my opinion was beauty beyond the confines of convention!

Woeful Wilderness

2011-03-20T03:50:00.000-07:00

With the resorts and home-stays of Masinagudi(Tamil Nadu) at a sorrowful battle with the government over alleged violations, its a pity how the conscious traveler has no chance of getting upclose to the wildlife that the region offers... Whereas the neighbouring Bandipur (Karnataka) suddenly sees itself as the 'go-to' destination to get your fix of a spattering of wildlife that is still left.

Stalwarts like Mr. Kothavala who started Bamboo Banks in 1974 ( probably the foremost homestay option in the Nilgiris, if not in India) reminisce about the days when the jungle was an adventure and tracing the big cats was part of the sport. With his sense of humour still intact, he manages to pull some jokes on the 'advantages of hunting' and keeps the conversation alive. We drive from Masinagudi to Bandipur, spotting deer, wild hogs, sambhars, emaciated elephants and peacocks on his daily drive.

Don't know what the solution might be, and I'm not averse to vigilance against human intervention, but just curious whether I might ever get a chance of seeing a big cat inside the jungle.

Goa - anytime!

2011-03-03T23:44:00.000-08:00

2nd day of the Goa Carnival Beginners' Workshop!
Already downed some refreshing 'Cocum' juice and all about aperture, shutter speed, ISO, framing, composition and more..
The fishing dock at Panjim was our first too - great photo ops amidst the pristine rising sun and the carcass of sea life all around! Energetic place....

Heading out to the beach for this evening to practice some more and then we are all set for the Carnival tomorrow!

Of hills and hamlets..

2011-02-27T10:31:00.000-08:00

Travellers often feel that proximity breeds disinterest and I guess i was bitten by the syndrome for the last 6 years -my only justification for not having discovered the beautiful Nilgiris before! Only about 5 hours away from Bangalore, the rolling tea estates, poinsettia lined winding roads, sturdy wild oak trees, clouds filling every crevice of the valley and miles of lush greenery till your eyes can take you, are definitely worth your while. The colonial lineage hangs surely in every high ceilinged old cottage and street name. The remnant influence of the British lives on in the boarding schools & plantation clubs – all giving the towns a sort of regal air ( especially Cunoor and Ooty)... Can't wait to get back.

I skirted the western edge of Tamil Nadu last week after a day in the historical little hamlet, Kanadukathan (off Karaikudi) and then heading upto the hills. This small town is replete with history of Chettinad culture, with the King’s palace and bungalows of many eminent families. Infact, walking down the narrow lanes can be pretty haunting, as most houses flaunt weathered beaten sculptures on the gate. Have to dig in more to understand the architecture, Aiyanar Vs Shiva temples and more..

Plunging into small green towns...

2011-02-04T21:00:00.000-08:00

Arriving at a town in the middle of the night has its own advantages... apart from the slight discomfort of having to answer to questioning looks of the then awake people, stray dogs etc, one really gets to know the character of the place. I arrived in Sakleshpur at 3.15 a.m and with a change in plan of the meeting spot for my pick up to Kadamane estate, I had to take an auto from the Old Bus Stand to the New one. A blurry eyed auto guy reacted most peacefully to my nudging and with his most valiant voice demanded for Rs 20/-... I almost misunderstood, as in any big town, I would have been at the mercy of a lone auto driver in the middle of the night and would have agreed to pay even Rs 200/- .. Thank god for small mercies and small towns!

Also, a big applaud to KSRTC (I am certainly a fan).. They have the most comfortable buses to anywhere....Arrive at the bus-stand, pick up magazines for the ride, and trudge along to the clearly numbered platforms.... Language? Never an issue..
So, i meandered off from the main highway, pre-dawn, to an almost 30 kms ride of tea estate lined winding roads to reach the Kadamane Estate – our venue for a POTM workshop.... Met wild hogs, hare and fires on the way.. Spent a fabulous day in an organ stirring ride with the GM of the estate in his 4 Wheel, up and down the boulders, streams, bamboo, wild jungle over-growth and in between towering elephant grass...

Felt like a school kid being taken on a tea factory visit – going through the processes, tasting tea, with the works..

Spent some ‘Erin Brokovichish’ evening, going through the Estate ‘Bible’ – a 5 kilo, frayed, hand written account of tea plants, land acquisition, animal attacks, shade trees, labour unrest and more right from 1959. With immaculate English, it was a perfect read with some black tea and lemon, fresh from the factory.

The Bible at the Tea Factory

Also went and trudged along the Sakleshpur Railway line ( it seems to be getting popular)..Not so much a photo-op than the fact that it makes you feel like some sort of an explorer..

(The Photography Onthemove’s SLR Beginner’s Workshop at Sakleshpur will be during the long Easter weekend in April....A must for those who just want to have a relaxed weekend, some fantastic food and yes, learn some

photography too)

Seeing Bombay in Mumbai

2011-02-04T20:51:00.000-08:00

A character set it cobble stone and British reminiscence.. yellow and black dotted streets... the eastern and western borders of India meet seamlessly.. the only contradiction is the pace.. lethargy vs a mad rush.. Meet my latest two favourites – Bombay and Calcutta...

After many failed attempts of liking the city, I have finally made peace with the energy that surrounds Bombay. I have would have ruthlessly tagged it ‘chaos’ a few years back. I understand the hook that anyone who has lived in Bombay feels. With every nook and corner reeking of grand architecture and the struggle to keep both colonial history and Indian tradition alive, is what I find most admirable about the city. Grafitti-ed walls with contemporary messages for society is in such stark contrast to Bangalore’s murals under fly overs...( I appreciate the effort but some creativity would have caused no harm)

Looking forward to POTM’s workshops in Mumbai...and partnering with the warm team of HUB and Bandra Walks for this...

Bangalore brooding...

2011-01-23T00:21:00.000-08:00

I often shudder at the thought of going to the centre of the town - to the illustrious ‘M.G Road’! Who would want to have under-dressed mannequins brazenly thrusting their angular shimmering bodies at them or be proximate to the bellowing machines heaving concrete up the metro construction? Surprisingly the trip didn’t turn out all that bad. A gentle gesture by a stranger certainly made the atmosphere warm, inspite of the nippy Bangalore air.

Standing firmly, yet inconspicuously in the middle of the pavement was a drinking water dispenser sponsored personally by an individual. It stood like a blind spot amidst hundreds who must have brushed against it. I thought of all those who might have seen it as such a relief in the warm afternoon. I felt so proud of that simple contraption, thinking what one would perceive of the city if they came here for the first time.

Warned by horror stories of India, I should think that many travellers see it as an exotic country which comes with a tagline -“Experience with Caution”.... With public amenities a clear lacuna in our social infrastructure, loos, drinking water, grime, pollution and poverty are hot topics! I wonder if anyone noticed this little thoughtful gesture amongst ‘Goa’ fridge magnets, brass Gods, psychedelic bangles and Rs 70/- books stealing the pavement show?

Oh! Calcutta...

2010-12-24T05:56:00.000-08:00

I’m going allow myself the lack of creativity in calling this ‘Oh! Calcutta’, just like I did in letting myself indulge in all the touristy stuff in Calcutta – Feudally rode a hand pulled rickshaw, saw the Victoria Memorial, went down the Howrah bridge in the Big Yellow taxi, had oodles of chai at Flurys, Someplace Else, Oly Pub, Radha Pallabi... You name it. I let myself bask in all things usual after the not so usual 20 days of Nagaland. Also acquired myself one of the sweaty original hand bells that the rickshaw pullers use....

Pale out the people, clean up the streets and one can’t help but think that you might as well have been in London. Each building is charmingly crumbly and reeks of colonial history (much like Bombay). Given the busy-ness of Bow Bazaar and the general cheer coupled with a laid back attitude I’m reminded of Benares in many ways. Calcutta is high on the list to stay for a couple of months...

Thanks to Calcutta Walks ( Ifte and Manjit of ), also checked out some ‘off the itinerary’ things. Visited the South Park Cemetery – neat and sunny! Has all the old world magic, carefully eluding the traffic and smoke right in the centre of the city. A toothless, greying Mr. Browne is the keeper of the place and insists that one writes a comment in his fraying register. Great morning spent there, except Mr. Browne’s hearing and my voice, both betraying the occasion of a quick chat to find out who all lie there.

The Calcutta Walks was the best use of my morning. 4 hours of some great insights on the cultural confluence in the middle of the city. Happy to have seen a real ‘Bhishti’ and ‘goats on the go’ – a fresh goat milk service in the narrow lanes behind Bow Bazaar!

So all in all a shameless touristy trip, replete with clichés except for the queer acquisitions – rickshaw bell, LP player, a Chinese newspaper and a Bong twang hangover! If it goes as per plan, the one day workshop in Cal will be a refreshing bit or two for the Kolkatans so they can click their wonderful city better! 

Kaziranga Recce for 2011, 16/12

2010-12-19T08:23:00.001-08:00

Waking up to more roosters, a bleak field and lush tea plants outside the cottage. Some more of the fantastic tea and all set for the jeep safari in the Western range. The drive in the jungle turned out pretty worth while as we spotted wild elephants with a new born, some wild buffaloes and ofcourse the rhinos, which are in plenty. The best part of the day was the chai at the Nepali shop and us giving advice to the tea shop at Amalgamated.

Mon Recce for 2011, 15/12

2010-12-19T08:21:00.000-08:00

Thank god for a sunny day and preparedness for the ghastly Naganimora road! After all the discussion, disappointed that it was just in two patches. The coal mines have made the roads soft and sinking, best suited for all terrain vehicles and not cars. A sense of humour and some guts and the crossing wasn’t so bad!!

Back in the plains of Assam with dramatically different topography. Chanced upon a totally Getoff~ place – Nature Hunt Eco Camp, Kaziranga with the world’s best tea. Bomani of Kaziranga helped explore all the places to stay but this one surely wins hands down. Something different to do next year – eat dinner at the roadside Dhaba. Prasad of Bihar has been running it since 1983 – the distorted tavaa reeking of its 30 years existence and has rarely been switched off for so many years. Some great kaali daal, fresh rotis and dollps of butter for the night.

Mon Recce for 2011, 14/12

2010-12-19T08:20:00.000-08:00

Camping in the middle of Phejin’s Dad’s tea estates seems like a yummy idea. Imagine getting up in the morning for a top view of the tea fields below. The trip to Chingphoi and Wanchung, a bit of a bummer as we can’t do the trek below to the side – its way too long. Still exploring a way.

Dont know if ive mentioned this before but be ready to shell out Rs 3000 or more if any happens to come beneath your wheel. The value of the deceased fowl is assessed by its age and the number of eggs it could still give if it were alive. A rule which is every driver’s predicament is followed thoroughly in the entire state. So far so good – no feathered friend has ventured beneath our wheel as yet.

The villages of Chingphoi and Chingthan a bit of a bummer as the river camping will have to have us trek for over two hours – and not an easy one that too. Hope we can find a more accessible river soon to complete the adventure quotient.
Speaking of adventure, the kids of Nagaland seem to have plenty of it, riding fast on their home made scooter- wheel things. Made of wood and a rickety wheel, they are often seen speeding down the roads on villages (something like the sledge thing used for winter Olympics).. Creativity with wood seems to be coming easy to many here.
Disappointed not seeing the roadside wooden prisons as in Tuensang. Supposedly, law breakers are put n a tiny wooden cell on the side of the road for passerbys to look and ridicule.

Mon Recce for 2011, 13/12

2010-12-19T08:19:00.000-08:00

Started the day by a short hike to the stone which demarcates the Indian – Burma border in both Hindi and Myanmar language. Got to know that there are still villages which lie in no man’s land – the Konyaks there are clothless and don’t belong to either side. A trek is there is almost impossible as only Konyaks are welcome.
Some stuff about the Konyaks -The Konyaks are known to be pretty creative – both in arts and crafts and weapons.. Indigenous guns are in plenty and its not uncommon to find the men carrying guns for hunting wild animals. Also the houses are adorned with bull heads along with a large single wood plank grain grinder. The cultivation is slash and burn – this time of the year looks a little bleak but March (the onset of Monsoons) is pretty lush.

One of the prettiest rides is to the far flung village of Longmein. We take a 2 hour drive to see the hundreds of human skulls, still in custody of the Angh, here. As a head hunting tribe, Longmein is one of the few villages that has preserved these as souvenirs from their forefathers. A little coaxing by our associate (Phejin – a Konyak herself and a travel buff), and they let us see the treasured wins. It also takes anywhere between Rs 350 – Rs 500 to get some close up pictures of the same. The village is pretty guarded about these and its imperative to go with a local, better if somebody knows them, in order to get a view.
Off to Shiyong village, where there is maximum cultivation of tea in Nagaland.

Mon Recce for 2011, 12/12

2010-12-19T08:18:00.002-08:00

The drive to the Tangnyu and Longwa village is as scenic as it gets. Only about an hour away, the most exciting thing to see at Tangyu are the monoliths which stand at the top of the mountain to signify the amount of heads that might have been hunted in the times of the forefathers.

Longwa sits on the border of the Burma- India border. An unadministrated area, half the village lies in Burma and half in India. The Konyaks now divided by boundaries still visit each other on important occasions. The clouds from one end of India fill up the valley on the other side in no time. We trekked down to the Burma village... the familes here are shy and not as friendly as the rest of Nagaland.
Sitting by the fire in the kitchen- ending the day with a community dinner ( cats n all included).

Mon Recce for POTM 2011 11/12

2010-12-19T08:18:00.001-08:00

Love that the clothes are getting crispy dry in the mountain sun finally. Helsa Cottage is definitely a ‘Getoff’ place. 4 local cottages on the outskirts of Mon village. Have lovely balconies in the huts from where one can see the village activities subsiding – the red Christmas stars come up sporadically in the mountains by 4.30.

Went to Chui and Mon village, both only about 20 mins from the Mon town... Chui Village is where the Chief Angh ( Head ) of the Konyaks stays.. Not much different from the rest of the villages in Nagaland, except that we saw the characteristic Konyak style huts and ofcourse some tattooed old men, who aren’t too gungho about getting themselves clicked – too many tourists have irked the tribe no end.

Nagaland POTM 2010, 9/12

2010-12-19T08:17:00.000-08:00

Feeling bad at the trip coming to an end. Definitely one of the greatest groups to go with. Thanks Vicky, Alex, Ivy and Patricia for the greatest stories. The ‘copter’ charm thwarted by the cost and days wasted. Off to Mon in the car!

Nagaland POTM, 2010, 8/12

2010-12-19T08:16:00.000-08:00

Bid adieu to Vicky and Alex and off to maneuver the ‘no road’ to Khonoma. Passing over rickety bridges and practically just slush, its all worth it to be in Khonoma, the Green Village. Also, home to Aslei, we are being looked after really well at Khrini’s cottage. A lovely wooden cottage with steps leading up to the house.. The rain/ mist adding to the quaintness to this pretty village. Again, the dustbins, well manicured streets and memorials for the deceased intrigue me. A staircase from the main junction leads us to the top of a hill. We see the old and the renovated village gate, which was made for protection. Wild sunflowers and big juicy grapefruits meet us on the way as the valley fills up with clouds. Great photo ops. Finally we reach the top which has the remains of an erstwhile fort. There used to be three of them. We also see the sitting area created by few honoured people of the village who can afford and live through 7 feasts for the village having crossed different stages in their life.

All this ending with some haunting Angami songs by 4 villagers – all in their traditional attire. Awe sit by the fire to take in the most haunting harmony about a dead lover who flies like an eagle above the lover. The Angamis ( also Nagas) sure have very deep themes in their music.
Haven’t had a more hearty laugh like the way we did looking at Patricia’s pictures. Cosy beds and the sounds of rain falling on the huts. Should have stayed here a night longer

Nagaland POTM 2010, 7/12

2010-12-19T08:15:00.001-08:00

The last day at the Hornbill is certainly the most exciting one. After the peace rally commemorating the WWII soldiers, the last performances end in all the tribes building their bonfires and then lighting it in mock competition from the central one. 4- 6 in the evening sees everyone dancing together, including guests from all over the world – a great big party!

After all the dancing at the HB venue, everyone rushes to the Rock Concert – a Mecca for rock/ heavy metal artistes all over the country. Its the greatest completion in the country with the maximum prize money of about 5 lakhs. Apparently, a Bangalore band, Slain, won this year. We misses them, but did cheer a group called, ‘Not yet Decided” – pretty evident as we laughed through songs like ‘ Haraam Khor’ and lyrics like “ kutte kameene, mein tera khoon pee jaoonga”.. all this after a 2 hour drive through bumper to bumper traffic. Still all worth it... Last rice beer of the trip with the best pork curry and rice.

Nagaland, POTM 2010, 6/12

2010-12-19T08:09:00.000-08:00

Our first day at the Hornbill Festival. What a sight! You can’t help but start clicking as soon as you see the tribes – all dressed in their traditional outfits and the venue made of each tribal morung for people to see. A great idea – even amidst the Reliance sandwich men, it’s a great attempt to hold on to the dwindling traditions. All states should adopt this. Even though the dances/ songs/chilli eating competitions etc are corrupted by commercial intrusion, the youth still get to know about their forefathers. Infact most of the people performing are the cultural clubs from different villages.

Ofcourse, we started with the rice beer – Zutho! Got to have some to develop a taste. Made out of fermented rice, it can be quite potent depending on the amount of time spent on processing it.

Nagaland POTM 2010, 5/12

2010-12-19T08:06:00.000-08:00

Off to the Hornbill venue – Kisama.

Disillusioning to come to a town after all the quiet villages.. the place is buzzing with the Hornbill festivities... people have travelled from Manipur and other neighbouring places to be here. We visit the night bazaar for a couple of hours to soak in all the fun and to taste the food.. Gave our expert judgment on the winning entry of the cake baking contest... Its like a school fete with youngsters strolling up and down.. we obviously made quite a sight with our Christmas caps – lots of attention and no problem in spotting each other.

Earlier in the evening it was the War Cemetery of WWII where 2238 tombstones lie in well manicured gardens. The upkeep of the cemetery is still done by the British, who send in funds each year. A beautiful place that eludes the busy town. I don’t know if this has any significance but it seemed to me that there were a lot more Muslim soldiers than Hindus there. Maybe a function of the battalion serving there then..
Oodles of tea to spur on the stories ...

Nagaland, POTM 2010, 4/12

2010-12-19T08:04:00.002-08:00

An Angami welcome at the sunny Tuophema village! More time around the fire – conversations, cakes and free flowing stories – small groups seem to work for me. Just one night may be a little less – want to soak in some more sun and hear more stories from one of the most vivacious 74 year olds I have met in a long time – we are all so inspired by Patricia. Liking the all women group...

Asle ( our guide), finally tells a little more about the head hunters – this is in Mon,, (cant wait to get there to recce for next year).. Like the fact that such trouble has been taken to build the simple but well thought out museum. It houses the traditional dresses, pots, beer making contraptions and some more memorabilia. One of the hats with chicken feathers actually connotes how many women’s breasts the bloke might have grabbed (actually how many wives he might have kept. Clearly before the missionaries arrived, the society might have had traces of polygamy)

Nagaland, POTM 2010 3/12

2010-12-19T08:04:00.001-08:00

Aizuto.
In the land of the Sema tribe – the village so influenced by Anderson Clarke and his work at the Theological college. Lovely to chance upon the college choir practicing. They must be fed something special. Everyone in the area sings so well – everyone sings at the church and have distinctly practiced voices.

The highlight clearly being the self invited ‘chai’ at the 99 year old lady’s house. Love the conversations without common language – a lot of laughing! Felt so special in the evening with the students of the Anderson College putting up the cultural show for us. Awesome harmony with about 80 students singing around the fire, till we all waited for the big tree in the middle of the fire to collapse...

Love the unconditional piety, cleanliness and voices of people here.
Found out that the people here bury their loved ones right next to the house, maintaining proximity and convenience to take care of the graves.

Nagaland, POTM 2010 2/12

2010-12-19T08:01:00.000-08:00

Amze (the local rice bread) for breakfast.. Getting set to see the village in daylight. Love the kitchen – the way it fits in as the community place for everyone to sit around the fire (including the pets). Found it hard to keep pace with the 85 year old to climb the Jina and Etibin tower. The story goes that Jina and Etinin ( much like Romeo and Juliet) loved each other but the families did not approve. Having been disallowed to be together, they died a tragic death. Yearly, the village lights a fire on each of the two highest towers and lets the smoke mingle, hoping that it would make their souls meet...

We see a Morung for the first time.. A place where young boys studied – the first educational institute. It was more like a learning centre before schools came. A boys dormitory and a place where slain heads were stored. Most villages in Nagaland still have Morungs and elaborate gates at entrances.
Some great lunch at Amins and then off to Aizuto.

Nagaland, POTM 2010 1/12

2010-12-19T08:00:00.000-08:00

We are known to veer off the itinerary if it makes sense! Set out at 3.30 this morning into the foggy road to Kaziranga – definitely worth it... Checked on the herd of deer, wild buffaloes and the famous one horned rhinos! A lot of elephant love in the morning and now breakfast at the Assam Tourism guest house.

A sinuous 4 hour ride to the isolated Moponchuket Village from Johrat and then being greeted by the Ao tribe – an absolutely authentic dance and folk song performance by the fire... It can’t get more personal than this. The tribes showing us their few important dances much before the Hornbill... We found out the secret of the Hornbill feather (dwindling population in Nagaland gets them to Assam). Most tribes now use paper feathers as the real one costs more than Rs 600/- each.

The Ao houses are a delight – great hospitality and no language challenge as the missionary work from 1800s has ensured that people are educated ( both in English and Nagamese). The chai around the fire in the kitchen( Lassie the dog and Pussy the cat curled deliciously) was good enough to forget the ride.. A star studded sky ( almost crowded with too many, the immaculately clean houses – so many elements to look out for – marigold lined streets, wooden floors, stilts to support houses, corn hanging from doors and most of all the sounds of a village! Couldn’t have slept better in 2 warm quilts in Amin’s house.

Nagaland, POTM 2010 30/11

2010-12-19T07:59:00.000-08:00

The day was interspersed with bumpy sandy roads of Majoli Island and the calm Brahmaputra.... A great surprise in the morning with a tea shop right in the ferry! Mishing tribal houses on stilts, pottery town and the 356 years old Vaishnav Monastery are the highlights of the island... For us it was definitely the self invited lunch at one of the tribal families. Don’t know if I was embarrassed or happy not to trouble the locals with our packaged MTR food.... As usual, a huge amount of warm hospitality even with the language barrier – beginning to get almost surprised at the few places (if any) which are uninviting.

Loved the several cups of tea waiting for the Ferry to come and pick us up. Dhon Das, the little kid at the chai shop, was certainly entertaining even in his stoic behaviour, only warming up at the chocolate – still not a peep though. Four large tractors and 2 cranes arrived at the ferry only to be precariously shifted to land by the way of planks. After much ‘oohing’ and ‘aahing’, the crowds finally dispersed when the hour long feat of getting all this machinery to land came to an end.

Everyone arrives sans luggage, but with ample cheer for the first session in the evening. Needs lots of rest to start early tomorrow morning!

Nagaland, POTM 2010 29/11

2010-12-19T07:58:00.000-08:00

In ‘green-walled’* Jorhat – dusty but indispensable to the itinerary at hand.... Had our first tryst with the MIGHTY Brahmaputra, that too at night. It was eerie but beautiful! The only thing visible though at that time of the day was a frothy wake snaking behind our boat. Wider than the Ganga in Benares and probably not that glamorous, but it’s definitely awe inspiring! Met the doc with the odd resort in the honey island of sand – Mou Chopari – hopefully this should be added to the plan next year. We just about missed the dolphins and the migratory birds – you see it feels like midnight at 6.00 p.m....

To quaint and simple airports, indigenous shades built over rikshaws and bite of Assam with the lost tribes & pottery village of Majoli, we start the Nagaland Photo Journey 2011!

Found a great ‘Chai’ Partner in Patricia who has travelled all across the world to now land in Bangalore for an indefinite period. Strange that she is seeing India first in an atypical way and not the expected plethora of colours, elephants, heat, crowds (and whatever preconceived notions that people bring with them when they come)

Nagaland, POTM 2010 28/11

2010-12-19T07:56:00.000-08:00

The Nagaland Journey finally begins after a hectic 3 days in Goa. Just barely arrived and now on the plane. Hop skip from Calcutta to Guwahati & then Jorhat with the lovely mountains at seemingly the same height on the left of the plane. Think it’s going to be one helluva trip.

The Storyteller

2010-11-19T21:02:00.000-08:00

You don't need many words to tell a story (if Pankaj is telling it)...
These are no fluey-fluffy travels.. this is some real stuff..
Look out for his documentary of his solo ride through 20,000 kms across India.

A Ride Through The Heart
www.youtube.com
This is real story for more information or to read the blog of his trip go to http://blog.hornokplz.tv/

Proto Village Photo Trip

2010-11-14T08:30:00.000-08:00

A bunch of us landed in Kalyan's muse - Proto Village - this weekend... and what a great trip it was!!

A cluster of 3 villages off the Bangalore - Hyderabad highway is all set to get new loos, smokeless choolahs and a great life under Kalyan's guidance. In this world of laborious plans and meticulous figures, i loved Kalyan's focus on ' ADEQUACY'.. and mind you, its not a word that mutes accuracy - it just redefines one's outlook to poverty. He and Wiebke are setting out on their cycles mid Dec, to cover all the Indian states.. its going to be a journey to learn from the local 'heroes' who are stretching their minds to give a better life to their villages. The idea is to take replicable models and apply them accross regional boundaries... all in all, we are so inspired... The 7 month long project is called ' The Glass Half Full'!

Onthemove chipped in at what they do best - gave a few photography tips which will hopefully help Kalyan in documenting this trip..Loved everyones enthusiasm - right from clicking in the heat, mingling with the villagers and ofcourse sleeping on the terrace under the starry sky!!!

Wishing Kalyan and Wiebke a 'bumpiless' journey ahead...

Follow them on http://www.the-glass-half-full.org/.

Beneath the layers

2010-10-02T01:07:00.000-07:00

It’s like peeling off the layers – From “hello madam, are you Indian?” to ‘didi’, it’s now poking fun, being extremely protective, administrating every move and conversation.. the boys at the ghats don’t even realise the joy they bring – whether its invitation to their homes or deeper into their lives. There is no room for subtleties – it’s there in your face. Their problems, drunken fathers, heroin consuming neighbours, lack of studying, ill mothers, a string of siblings to marry or educate – no one can out a lid on the events that draw them more and more towards poverty.. and yet there is not a sense of remorse or it must be very well concealed – all in all, I don’t think the people here know how to be sad.

Ramnagar Ki Ramlila

2010-10-02T01:01:00.000-07:00

Yesterday I witnessed the one of the best & rawest theatrical performances ever – the Ramlila at Ramnagar. And they said I was mighty lucky because I happen to catch one of the most important occasions where Ram was to lift up the Dhanush to exhibit his might! The most revered and revelled atmosphere I have seen till date.

Petro lamps lit the large ground where 3 stage platforms were set up – not a sign of electric bulb. Mic-less, the all male caste( even Sita), bellowed long verses of the Ramayana to a crowd of over 50,000, who sat in extreme discipline ( a little shocking for U.P standards). Everyone was seated on the ground, not getting up in the middle or disturbing anyone. The cheering and chanting of erupted only when the Dhanush was lifted – all this in exact precision of the dummy horse turning his head on one tower, the ‘mashaal’ being lit on another and the cannon from the grounds behind thundering - all at the exact same time. This is related by locals each year in equal animation & fascination. Old priests trailed the actors, prompting them if they forget one of the complicated stanzas. Another occasion heard an equal roar of respect when the ‘lil boy’ Sita flung a garland of flowers over Ram’s neck – the holy couple was greeted with such honest and heartfelt applause! Kudos to the Raja for patronising and keeping this tradition absolutely intact and free from the outside world..

No one seemed to mind heaving their way through sweat & heat. Young boys were getting their foreheads dressed the glittering tikas. Little kids entwined their fingers with their parents and swayed along with the crowd – everyone dressed glitzily for the occasion. Everyone was smiling!

The journey from Benares was even more captivating. The oldies of Ahilya Ghat, who have been attending the Ramlila for over 40 years, packed themselves in a boat, for the daily sojourn to watch this great spectacle at this time of the year. Businesses dealt with uptill 2.00 p.m, wives and kids at home, the men folk were in a mood for some ‘all boys’ fun. Sher-o-shaiyari, poking fun at each other, amateur attempt at poetry – the boat ride was a riot! At the Ramnagar Ghat the scene was ecstatic –a bath in the holy water and then came out the kajal, chandan and their beautiful lathis – after all they were going to meet the ‘Bhagwaan’. The ‘bhaang’ was elaborately prepared. No one left the boat without taking a swig at the smoking chilams and a couple of big fresh green non adulterated bhaang laddoos... The meeting with the Lord, soon forgotten, the gang was found at Shivaji Lassi shop (the oldest here).. Everyone filling in to subdue the effect of bhaang.... I’m not sure if they ever reached the Ram-lila grounds, but I’m sure it was a party not to be missed...

Back to Benares

2010-09-27T01:32:00.000-07:00

Nothing’s really changed about the city – wafts of food, faeces and faith emanate from the narrow lanes! Everything’s same- the slowly burning pyres, the pot-bellied cops manning harmless streets, loose clothed tourists leaning in to hear young guides, the buzz at the aarti time – only the river is swollen to almost 20 metres higher, barring me to walk from one ghat to another.

Harsh realities are like a slap on the face compared my preposterous insecurities of city life! It’s only about survival! Topics like a dead mother, drugs & booze, flesh eating babas, homelessness, lost love and physical disabilities flow cheerfully through seemingly inane conversations – the ability to deal with this ruthless life is brushed away effortlessly by a bunch of ‘good friends’. I feel so deprived!

I’m pampering myself to heady indulgence in things that don’t touch us & in moments I’m a little appalled at my own brazen intrusion into private lives of people. My only justification being that they don’t really care and take life so seriously.

At the edge of Kerala's tummy!

2010-09-07T11:53:00.000-07:00

Could not have found a better way to travel at the edge of Kerala today - A Honda Activa scooter from Kodangalloor to Guravayoor. Almost 60 kms one way, thanks to no cabs on India Bandh...... Loved the windy ride behind Lijo Jose ( a very enterprising youngster who wants to make his little obscure town like Dubai)..
Was amazed to see such a flurry of activities even on a dead day like today outside the Guravayoor temple. A Bharatanatyam concert right outside the temple contributed to the background music for my time there - while I met the ‘Mural Master’ saving the dying art, my trip inside the temple with a hastily tied ‘mundu’ as a skirt and the search for the Kalari school.

The temple, as many in India, was intriguing, with hundreds snaking slowly to get in, only to be shoved swiftly by the ushers, even before they got a glimpse of the main deity. A man rolled himself around the main sanctum (in attempt to get rid of all his sins) while his wife and child followed slowly after him – it looked quite painful. I hope the lord of the temple was equally impressed as I was.

Met all 65 elephants at the Kotta near the temple! I am thoroughly impressed with Satyapal, the mahout to ‘Lakshman’, who has been there for over 25 years. His English was immaculate enough for this little town, given that he has barely studied. Wish I had the vigour to learn new things like him. Mostly fuelled by a need to sustain a livelihood, I feel humbled at how rural India has adapted itself to the needs of visitors – and it’s rather shameful that I am just as much as a foreigner, only the same skin colour. Tamil or Malayalam - one of the two classes as soon as I get back.

Jungle Boy Baiju with Indiana Jones!

2010-09-07T11:33:00.000-07:00

I was never really fascinated with waterfalls! So more than the gushing waters of Anthirappilly & a great view of them from 'Rainforest Resort', it’s the rawness of the forest that caught my attention. With self proclaimed ‘Jungle Boy’ Baiju, taking a peep into the homes of the 'Kader' tribe was even more fun. Liked Baiju’s familiarity with the jungle sounds, his candid excitement on sharing stories..Initially, I dismissed his over readiness to show me ‘REAL’ tribes in my head. But the 4 tribes of this region really are not over urbanised like many. Felt like Indiana Jones, with the surreal ride in the motor boat to reach their island. Took a small very eerily quiet ride on a bamboo raft (it was hardly bound together), met a lady who had just caught fresh grasshoppers for fishing and saw the quaint Dolman graves....all in all – a great 4 hours. Looking forward to it with the Getoffurass actual trip into Kerala.

Orbiting Kerala with fantastic company

2010-09-05T11:11:00.000-07:00

Met the most affable, but foul tongued cab driver today! I’m 8 swears stronger to take on the Mallus!! :) While some wobbly drivers got the brunt of his lashing tongue, I was at the end of only some unyielding concern! Had a fantastic 15 hours with him in the car right from the usual necessary banter about ‘native’, marriage, ‘oh, no brother?’, job, weather, politics, religion - the whys, whats and hows of my personal life shredded to pieces by his innocent questioning.... Where would you find such involvement and interest by someone you just met – one of the things I love as a solo traveler in India.....

Though I circled the Alappuzha district twice in one day, the orbiting has been completely worth it. I was out to find a school or a temple where Kalari, Kathakali & Mohiniattam have not been driven to resorts and hotels to survive. At 8.30 p.m I tiredly heaved myself out of the car to discover the Aranmula temple – its a HUGE indomitable structure in this sleepy little village where the famous metal mirrors are made. With the authentic Kalari rink close & Aranmula Mirror factory to see, it will make a great 5 hours to be plugged in for the Getoffurass itinerary for people travelling into India. This is really getting off ur ass – it would have been a compromise otherwise. Also, the Pamba River runs right behind the temple..
So happy, so happy, so happy!!

And for the Photography Onthemove crowd – next year’s Snake Boat Race is going to SOMETHING ELSE! Think – getting on the snake boat, lunch with the Champakulam team, one of us getting to actually row in it!!! Superrr excited..

2010-09-04T11:07:00.000-07:00

I could spend my entire life and Ill still not be done with Kerala.... so much to discover. Headed out to Chennamangalam to bring some semblance to the chronology of events between the Jews, Dutch , Portuguese and Tipu Sultan of Mysore.. A history heavy day!

I need to lose the filter of 'apt interest for others'! Beginning to over-indulge in 'off-beat'.... sore with too many thoughts!

Easy Combos - at not only Mc Donalds!

2010-09-03T10:31:00.000-07:00

Felt heart wrecked at being offered a 'Combo' of Kathakali, Kalaripayatu and Mohiniattam - topped with some air-conditioning! Really? This is how we want to save our culture? Are we gonna offer it so unabashedly to a hoard of tarvellers, burdened under their digital cameras and purified water??

Then I sat at 'Tea Pot' and gulped some 'garam' chai to ironically cool down! I remembered how impressed I was at the weighty presentation of the light history of countries like Singapore - immaculate displays, easy to browse, readable amount of information. It was easy to assimilate and thats what I always felt that India required. While I]d personally love to watch a dance performance at a local temple, for some, a peep into various cultures is good enough. And thats good enough as long as the actual artists benefit and an art lives on ( infact thrives everyday).....
Must have been the marvelous cheese cake at Tea Pot in Fort Kochi- it just induced a sense of balance in my head! Its good to be idealistic about saving tradition but its equally important to have commercially viable avenues for the artistes to make money.

All in all Day 2 was more fruitful than Day 1!

No Meter Jam for Kochi.....

2010-09-02T10:57:00.000-07:00

Each time I travel to Kerala, I enter with a feeling of ‘knowing-ness’- almost mildly defiant and subtly doubtful about finding something refreshing.... And each time it’s a pleasant shock – either discovering a great new homestay, an engaging chat with a local, an exclusive boat ride or just some fascinating place with an off-beat legacy!

This time, I’m won over by a much needed concept – an Auto Rikshaw ride through the town by an organised group. Say hello to The Odyssey Kochi Rickshaw at Fort Kochi... several auto Rikshaw drivers are listed here and are trained as guides, giving one a charmingly raw peep into the history of the town. A great concept for many who don’t know the language - sans fear of getting ripped off! See more on http://www.kochitravelguide.com/rickshaw....

Day 1 of the Kerala Recce for Getoffurass gets over with a great new find. Thanks to Tea Bungalow for a BIG meal & lots of Kochi gossip to chew on.

T for 'Taj'

2010-08-21T22:30:00.001-07:00

Had the chance to visit the Taj Mahal again in life!!.. And ofcourse my level of appreciation was absolutely different since I last visited at the age of 10 or 11.

Apart from the fact that it is breath-taking I was pleasantly surprised at the use of electronic cars, shoe covers, crowd handling and the lack of over whelming shoving 7 pushing - overall a courageous attempt at getting the Indian tourist to be more disciplined.

Thumbs up to the authorities at Taj! And a splash of water in the eyes of the concierges of many deserving monuments crying for similar concern!

I chipped in to pick up some sweet wrappers & following instructions to the T. Do your bit...

Day 2 @ Bamboo Stix.. Windy & Wired into photography...

2010-08-13T00:20:00.002-07:00

The rain and wind Gods are in playful conspiracy to make us nervous early morning about the showers! After crossing the jetty for the umpteenth time, the untimely drizzle finally landed Sumana, Charu and I in the Sports Authority School for shelter. Not so much luck for tea in their canteen, but it did give me time to put my intrigue at rest about the place.
Another thing that creates sufficient ambivalence in my head is the countless number of House Boats – monstrous and inappropriate in space for only twos and threes. I would love to indulge too but them creating such traffic in the Punnamada Lake has kept me at bay. So luxury & livelihood pitched against dirt and distortion of topography has resulted in deficiency of enthusiasm to get into one of these...
While nuances of light, composition and more get firmed in the participants’ heads, it’s time to stock up for the long day tomorrow –couple of beers & Biryani and we are set!

2nd Year of Photography Onthemove starts with the Snake Boat Race @ Alleppey!

2010-08-12T05:41:00.000-07:00

Amidst raging contrivance against auto guys with their meters being urged to get locked on 12th August and what not, a gentleman of a cab driver saved the fraternity in my eyes... While I shoved forth my luggage at the railway station and shoved back tears on losing a fantastic roommate to some UK university, the Alleppey trip for the Photography Onthemove was already beginning to get eventful.. With the cab driver’s contagious cheer, I heaved luggage 4 times my weight, and plonked myself in the train in the nick of time – And ofcourse my teary onset got reassured with yet another encounter with the ever-binding tea! My sheepish attempt at getting a cup with waving Rs 1000 note didn’t get me any niggling curses - just a steaming hot one for free. Before I could even profusely thank this Indian Railways Tea Man, he was gone in a jiffy! What a perfect heart-warming way to begin the 2nd year cycle of POTM!

I always like to arrive early at this venue! Such a thrill to meet Sabu the boat man, Regi, Sharath and others – a familiarity I don’t feel with many who speak my language. At the risk of sounding a little over poignant, those twenty minutes alone in the boat to Bamboo Stix in the middle of the Punnamada Lake, brings such clarity in my head....

Rough start with the familiarity breeding laziness at Bamboostix (they really could have cleaned the rooms yesterday!!!), but the constant breeze has worked its soothing charm on anxious minds and we are rolling smoothly on Day 1. With not too much to grapple with on the first day, we are two meals and one practice session of the snake boats full!
Looking forward to a technicality heavy day tomorrow and the grand finale on Saturday.....!
Signing off from one of the most relaxing finds in last 4 years!

Benares.. on 1st June

2010-06-11T03:41:00.000-07:00

The drive upto Chunar Fort on a bumpy, dusty road was quite it worth once I began the climb to the famous Fort.. Chanda ( the guide's grand-daughter) rattled on her well memorized saga while I transported myself to the times when kings and their army snaked their way in the dungeons to hide from the enemy.. All i gathered from her wind-stricken voice was Chandrakanta, L.K Advani and a host of Hindi movies... Thought too far from Benares to include in the Photography Onthemove workshop, it is worth it for someone who has many days to spare.. A voluminous part of Ganga flows by the fort, which makes the location pretty enviable.

Before this, I had attempted to meet the King of Ramnagar.. a small neighbouring town of Benares, which brandishes the " Lal Bahadur Shastri Nagar 'with a colossal gate, but has done little to preserve the birth place of the famous leader. His house still stands, weather beaten at the end of a narrow, windy lane.. The fort of Ramnagar was promptly struck off from a probable location for the workshop for its lack of elaborate-ness and the fact that one is not allowed to take pictures there.. Though Ramnagar will be the destination to head to if we want to catch the famous Ramlila..I saw some old schedules pasted to paan shops and saw that each part of the Ramayana was to be enacted in different small venues - phone calls made, guards and organisers met - all we need to do is land up there to shoot 'behind the scenes' of the most emphatic theatrical performance of India.

The best part was the famous Lassi shop - thick brown cream, heaps of sugar and a kuladh( mud cup).... a delicious treat with all the making of a diabetic atrocity! But yummm... I huddled in with Dashrath ( the auto guy) in the tiny shop and struggled to finish the 250 ml delight.

Did i forget to mention the morning at Vishwanath temple on the ghats..One has to be ruthlessly ushered in by the cops( its on alert after the Babri Masjid riots).. the narrow lane is dotted with the khaki uniform and one can barely assimilate whats happening, and ur thrown out by strapping young lad in the uniform.. The Aurangzeb mosuqe lies right behind this. (Non Indians/ Non Hindus are not allowed in here).....

Spent the evening at the ghats and then tried my hand at rowing the boat upstream..... and then needed 3 'langda' mangoes to make up for the intensive workout..

Benares... on 31st May

2010-06-06T06:47:00.000-07:00

The 43 degrees heat emanating from everything in Benares just fuelled my spirit & excitement of being here for the first time like the way I would want to....... The city is so sure in its character - in its winding dusty lanes, in the sights and smells, the mingling of urbanisation and with the old world charm of weathered Havelis...
Can’t wait to start at 5.30 a.m tomorrow.... There is no room for cynicism about its atypically typical portrayal of ‘clouded by chilams sadhus’, ghats and the mighty Ganges.. It IS charming!
Quizzed Pandey Ji (again, over a cup of tea) on the irony of living through the business of death – the doms, the pundits, the guys who sell flowers and every little ingredient which ensures a definite unfastening of re-birth, the barbers, just everyone. There is also an unusual occupation for some, who only take last photographs of the one about to be mounted on the pier.... All this to make a living, when death faces in you in numbers as large as 200-300 per day....
On that indulgent & ironical note on life and death, more tomorrow!

Tea For Travel...

2010-06-06T06:44:00.001-07:00

Why is my blog called TeaForTravel? Apart from a childish attempt at a fertile use of words, letters and a partial spoonerism, I think tea is very closely related to my travels and experience of places and people. An ingredient acquired from the Chinese and a habit imbibed from the British, one can find Indian’s sipping their versions in the hottest and coldest of places. And I’m quite sure that the concoction works at various levels in people’s hearts..A cup of tea binds people together like an unsaid, ‘spit on it handshake’ – It’s a first endeavor of invitation, making and firming up associations...conversations flow more easily over a hot one.

So, cheers to whatever you may call it – ‘cuppa’ for the daintily sipping ones, ‘chaya’ for my maid & ‘ek kadak’ for many.... Enjoy!